Slice of Saturday Night. Fitting of Toile and adjusting of pattern.

Finally was able to have the first costume fitting of the Toile I had made, on the Actress, for the 1960's dress.
First thing that needed adjusting was the arm sleeve holes, which I was fully aware needed doing anyway. The original armhole did fit but it would of been uncomfortable.
After taking away some of the fabric the Tutor and I re-tried the Toile on the actress but decided to take some more away, this was to allow the armhole to fit even better and allow more movement for the arm and to allow space for the sleeve that was going to be added to the costume.
We needed to pin the top of the skirt up higher onto the bodice so the seam sat on the actresses waist as it was too low.
Next we needed to take the bust dart in deeper so the fabric of the bodice would sit better over the bust as there was too much fabric in the bodice. The neckline was also adjusted to a 'V' shape.
The Actress also wanted to have a long sleeve on the dress so it was decided that the sleeve would be of a sheer 'see through' fabric, slightly gathered at the top going down to a 4" cuff, where there will be a slight puffiness of fabric gathered at the top of the cuff.
Due to needing to make a sleeve we had to take further measurements of the top of the actresses arm and of her wrist, plus around the lower arm where the top of the cuff would be.
As we had pinned the skirt up higher onto the waistline, it meant that the dress hemline was now shorter, so I would now need to add an additional length to the dress and as the actress wanted it to be just below her knee, I felt a further 2 and half inches added to the hemline would be necessary.
The final dress is going to be made in a black or dark blue fabric, with possibly a bit of sparkle added to the front of the bodice.

After sitting and pondering for a while about the adjustments that needed to be made and not sure where to start, I did make a start by drawing a pencil line across the bodice at the point where that should now end, above the edge of the top of the skirt where that had now been pinned up.
I then took all the pins out that were holding the skirt to the new position so allowing me to take the side seam apart, initially up to the bust dart, so I could see how much needed to come off the bodice, which was to be an inch. (Picture below shows the pencil marking on the Toile of the adjustments that needed to be made, plus the original adjustment markings I had made on the paper pattern, before deciding to re-draw a new pattern).

Originally I cut an inch from my paper pattern that I had made and then proceeded to take the bodice and skirt seam apart so I could open up the mock-up and adjust the new position of the armhole against the paper pattern.
I started to attempt to make the adjustments to the paper pattern but then decided it would be easier to actually make a whole new paper pattern allowing for the new adjustments. I had discussed this with the Tutor and she was in agreement as we both felt it was essential for the outfit to fit my actress well to boost her level of confidence during her performance. It was also decided to make a whole new Toile once the new pattern was made and then try the new Toile on my actress before proceeding to make the final outfit.
I took apart the whole Toile but before doing so I marked the new bust darts on the old Toile with pencil and where I was to move the gathering to as well. I unstitched all the seams and took out all the pins, so I could start again. I cut an inch off the mock-up so when I drew round it, it would now be the correct length. (See pic below).

Initially I forgot to take out the back shoulder dart and bust dart and opened up the Toile and drew round both the front and back bodice sections onto new pattern making paper. After carefully looking at the newly drawn pattern and examining my original Toile I realised the new pattern wasn't right and took apart the darts and re-laid the Toile back onto the pattern making paper over where I had drawn and re-drew round the Toile crossing out the lines I didn't want. After asking the Tutor to check my work, as I must admit at this point it was making my head explode (lol), I cut the new paper pattern out. I marked on the new pattern where the back shoulder dart and bust dart should be. I also cut out a new skirt pattern, adding extra to the length as the actress told me she wanted the hem to be just below her knee.