After a discussion with the head of the department I decided to make some adaptions to my Toile.
She suggested I should make the sleeve of the outfit more obvious that it is a multi-layered garment. I decided to take one of the sleeves off and cut it shorter at an angle. I then made a full length narrower sleeve to go inside the shorter sleeve and finally I made a mid length sleeve which I gathered and puffed out to go between the 2 sleeves. Thus giving the appearance of 3 different sleeves.
(above shows the extended bridal train made from the full length tapering back panel and the final sleeve with 3 distinct layers to it. Also shows the stages of adjusting the sleeve pattern).
She also suggested that the bottom gathered frill and underneath frill should go all the way round the bottom of the outfit and not stop at the edge of the back panel which tapered down to the hem line. She felt that the frill ending at the back panel did not give the outfit a continuity of complete separate layers underneath the top, first layer of the dress. I agreed with this and chose to continue the frills all the way round the bottom.
She suggested I should cut the back panel shorter and end it at the beginning of the frills.
Although I undid the back panel and added the frills all the way round, I decided to extend the tapering back panel and make it more of a feature. Allowing it to give the appearance of a bridal train at the back of the outfit. The tapering full length back panel was one of the features I liked about this pattern and I wasn't going to lose it at this stage.
I discussed it with the actor whether this would be practical for him whilst wearing it to act in and he loved the idea. We both agreed if it wasn't working for him whilst on the stage during a dress rehearsal I could shorten it to a more manageable length.
Another suggestion made was to lower the front neckline and add another neckline underneath that then sits where the original neckline was to be, thus giving the appearance again of more than one layer.
She also suggested that fabrics should match up in places to give the appearance of complete dresses that are in layers. Baring this in mind I have decided that the material I use on the gathered frill will also feature on the gathered middle sleeve and the underneath neckline. The fabric used on the underneath frill will also feature in the full length narrower sleeve. The shorter top sleeve will have the same fabric as the main top coat.
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